I will try to restore this rusty old Tonka dump toy truck. Can I rescue it? I don’t know the exact model of the toy but I believe it is a Tonka truck from 1970’s. The sticker on it says Toronto Canada. There is a lot of rust and the paint is gone on large areas. The windshield is very scratchy. The white plastic on the wheels has yellowed. More on how I restored it after the links:

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Tools used in this video:
BASIC ROTARY TOOL: https://amzn.to/2SOD5Je
CHUCK NORRIS’ TOOTHBRUSH: https://amzn.to/2YfXUj2
H202: https://amzn.to/2YuQdbn
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RESIN POLISH: https://amzn.to/2jOg0sW

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PRESS FOR ROTARY TOOL: https://amzn.to/2Uiv1Eu
2-AXIS TABLE FOR THE PRESS https://amzn.to/2WPkttl
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SUBSCRIBE ▶▶▶ https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCf_s
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Restoration playlist▶ https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLVIxIjRNxFv5VRUXt66VzBxOys1GpmBp4

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I started the project by disassembling the truck. Like most tin toys it was held together with “flaps” that are inserted through holes and bent to secure the parts. It also had 3 rivets which I got off with my rotary tool and some precise grinding. After I had ground most of the rivets off from one side I could just use a punch to get out the pieces that were still left.

After the parts were off I removed the paint from the metal parts with paint remover. I wrapped the parts in cling film which helps the process but is not necessary. I left it there for a few hours and the paint came off really easily. Doesn’t beat sandblasting but I don’t have room for a sand blasting cabinet right now. After the paint was gone I put the parts in rust remover for several hours. This got all the rust off. There was no severe damage done by rust. Whatever damage there was could be covered with just thick primer paint.

Once the rust was removed I cleaned the parts well and used a thick primer. I sanded the coat of primer for the best result. This was especially important because this week was very hot which started to affect the paint as the primer started drying before hitting the parts. This is not good for the finish on the parts. This was followed by yellow satin paint, RAL 1028 in this case. That I put on the parts outside as there the temperature was good for painting.

The windshield was very scratchy. Even after cleaning it up you couldn’t really see through it well. I used car polish product to make it much better. The first paste you see me using is a car polish or cutting compound (found in the links) it has very fine particles that are used to sand the surface to remove previous scratches. Because the compound is sanding it still leaves the surface a little bit dull so I used a resin polish compound which basically will the tiny scratches left from the polish compound and makes a very very thin new top layer on the windshield. Typically these products are used to polish a car.

I always want to go the extra mile so I decided to make the yellowed wheel white again and make new stickers for the doors. The deyellowing process is something called retrobright most often used to restore plastics on old electronics such as a gameboy. Basically what you need is hydrogen peroxide and UV-light. In this case only the outside of the wheels had yellowed so I did not have to submerge the parts fully. I only put them in the H2O2 with the yellowed part facing down and put the parts outside in sun with a foil under the container. The foil reflects the UV-light to the yellowed plastic making it white.

The old sticker was almost gone and I didn’t find the exact same sticker for sale so I redesigned it on photoshop based on some other available stickers. I printed these stickers out and cut them with scissors. Using a die cutter is recommended unless you area god with scissors, like me. I left the sticker making part out because the video was long enough and based on my previous videos most people jump forward the moment I show photoshop on the screen.

Wow, this was a long text thanks for reading this far! Sharing is caring and all that… I almost run out of chracters this

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